Establishment Guidelines

Planting Instructions

All recommendations for seeded crops are presented in pure live seed or PLS. The actual seeding rate or bulk seeding rate will need to be adjusted for purity and viability. For more information and considerations for adjusting your seeding rate, please visit B1510, Preparing and Calibrating a No-Till or Conventional Drill for Establishing Forage or Cover Crops.

Hybrid Bermudagrass

• When to plant: late spring to early summer (typically late April to June). Weed competition or dry weather will limit success when planted later.
• Planting depth: 2-3 inches for commercial sprigging machines; 1-2 inches for tops or broadcast plantings (material is usually hand spread or spread by a manure spreader and lightly disked in).
• Planting material: hybrid bermudagrasses must be established from vegetative plant material. Freshly dug sprigs (rhizomes or stolons) are the best source of planting stock for the hybrid bermudagrasses. Mature top growth (clippings or tops) can be used to establish stands of some varieties, but more research is needed.
• Planting rate: 30 to 50 bushels/acre for sprigs planted with a commercial sprigging machine; 50 to 75 bushels/acre for tops or sprigs that are broadcasted and disked in.
• Planting methods: stale or false seedbed required. No-till plantings are not recommended for hybrid bermudagrass.  

Seeded Bermudagrass

• When to plant: late spring to early summer (typically late April to June). Weed competition or dry weather will limit success when planted later.
• Planting depth: ¼ to ½ inch deep.
• Planting rate: 5 to 10 lbs PLS/acre.
• Planting methods: stale seedbed is preferred, but no-till plantings are possible.

Note: Bahiagrass seed are known to have variable germination rates because the waxy seed coat limits potential water uptake which slows germination. For most varieties, 50 to 60% of the seed will germinate within 30 days of planting while the rest will germinate the following growing season. TifQuik is the exception, as most of its seed will germinate within the first two weeks after planting if the soil conditions are favorable

Bahiagrass

• When to plant: late spring to early summer (typically late April to June). Weed competition or dry weather will limit success when planted later.
• Planting depth: ¼ to ½ inch deep.
• Planting rate: 10 to 15 lbs PLS/acre.
• Planting methods: stale seedbed is preferred, but no-till plantings are possible.

Note: Bahiagrass seed are known to have variable germination rates because the waxy seed coat limits potential water uptake which slows germination. For most varieties, 50 to 60% of the seed will germinate within 30 days of planting while the rest will germinate the following growing season. TifQuik is the exception, as most of its seed will germinate within the first two weeks after planting if the soil conditions are favorable. 

Tall Fescue

• When to plant: fall (typically September to October).
• Planting depth: ¼ inch deep.
• Planting rate: 15 to 20 lbs PLS/acre when planted with no-till drill. Broadcast plantings are not recommended.
• Planting methods: no-till plantings are most common. Fields should be prepped using spray-smother-spray or spray-spray-plant method. These timelines and instructions may be found in the tall fescue establishment plan with timeline at the end of this publication. 

Warm Season Annual Forages

• When to plant: Late spring to early summer (typically late April to June).
• Planting depth and rate: please refer to B1584, Planting and Growing Annual Forages in Georgia.
• Planting methods: no-till or conventional plantings are possible. 

Cool Season Annual Forages

• When to plant: fall (typically September to October).
• Planting depth and rate: please refer to B1584, Planting and Growing Annual Forages in Georgia.
• Planting methods: no-till or conventional plantings are possible. Only use no-till plant method if overseeding into perennial sod. 

Fertility at Establishment

Hybrid Bermudagrass, Seeded Bermudagrass, and Bahiagrass

• Nitrogen: Apply 35 to 50 pounds of N per acre after the seedlings emerge and start to grow and a second application of 50 to 75 pounds of N per acre in mid-summer to promote rapid coverage. Do not apply nitrogen at or before planting because this will increase competition from annual grass weeds.
• Phosphorus: Apply before planting according to soil test recommendations; incorporate into soil if using the stale seedbed method.
• Potassium: Apply before planting according to soil test recommendations; incorporate into soil if using the stale seedbed method.
• Lime: Apply lime 6 to 12 months before planting according to soil test recommendations. Incorporate into soil if possible. 

Tall Fescue

• Nitrogen: Apply 20 to 50 pounds of N per acre after the seedlings emerge and start to grow. Do not apply N at or before planting because this may increase competition from annual grass weeds.
• Phosphorus: Apply after planting according to soil test recommendations.
• Potassium: Apply after planting according to soil test recommendations.
• Lime: Apply lime 6 to 12 months before planting according to soil test recommendations. Incorporate into soil if possible.

Warm Season Annual Forages

• Nitrogen: Apply 40 to 60 pounds of nitrogen per acre soon after the annual grasses emerge and additional applications of 50 to 60 pounds of nitrogen per acre for each month during the summer grazing season.
• Phosphorus: Apply after planting according to soil test recommendations.
• Potassium: Apply after planting according to soil test recommendations.

If crop will be used for hay or baleage, apply 40 pounds of nitrogen per acre at planting, 60 pounds of nitrogen per acre after establishment, and 60 pounds of nitrogen per acre after each harvest except the last. If more than one harvest is anticipated, increase the phosphorous and potassium rates listed on your soil test by 25%. 

Cool Season Annual Forages

• Nitrogen: Apply 40 to 60 pounds of nitrogen per acre soon after the annual grasses emerge and additional applications of 50 to 60 pounds of nitrogen per acre for each month during the summer grazing season.
• Phosphorus: Apply after planting according to soil test recommendations.
• Potassium: Apply after planting according to soil test recommendations.

Pre-Emergence Weed Control At Establishment

Hybrid Bermudagrass

Diuron is the only pre-emergent herbicide currently labeled for use in sprigged bermudagrass during establishment. Diuron provides good control of annual grass weeds and some broadleaf weeds. The herbicide must be applied immediately after sprigging to minimize damage to the sprigs. Furthermore, the sprigs should be planted 2+” deep to reduce the risk of injury. 

All Other Forages

There are no pre-emergent herbicides currently labeled for use in seeded bermudagrass, bahiagrass, tall fescue, or annual forage crops during establishment. 

Post-Emergence Weed Control At Establishment

It is critical to control weeds during the establishment phase since young stands perennial forages cannot compete with broadleaf or grass weeds. However, the newly planted grass must be at least 6-8” tall and well-rooted before 2,4-D or other labelled broadleaf weed control options can be applied. There are no herbicides to safely and selectively control annual grasses in newly established perennial grass stands under one year old. Options are limited in annual forage crops.

Mowing is often the best option for controlling problematic weeds during the establishment phase. The mowing height should be adjusted so little (if any) of the desirable forage is cut. Plan to mow every 2 to 4 weeks, depending on the level of weed competition. Once established, our perennial forages can suppress most weeds, and mowing will not be necessary if proper forage management is followed.

Establishment Plans with Timelines

The timelines presented here do not include the suppression of the previous stand with summer and winter annual forages since planting dates and growing seasons vary by year and location within the state. The Web Soil Survey is an excellent resource for learning more about the soil type, topography, slope, etc. of your farm. 

Hybrid Bermudagrass

The stale or false seedbed methods are preferred for hybrid bermudagrass because they help suppress weeds at establishment and allow for easy planting of bermudagrass sprigs or tops. 

Stale Seedbed Planting Method

• 6 to 12 months before planting – test soils and apply lime if required based on soil test results
• 8 weeks before planting – confirm sprig availability
• 6 weeks before planting – terminate winter annual cover crop by grazing or mowing and spraying non-selective herbicide
• 4 weeks before planting – use a plow, disc, or harrow followed by a field conditioner to break up existing vegetation and smooth the field; incorporate P and K fertilizer and any additional lime if required based on soil test results
• 1 week before planting – spray a non-selective herbicide to control emerged weeds
• After last risk of frost (April to May depending on location) – plant bermudagrass
• 2 to 4 weeks after planting – apply low rate of N fertilizer
• Approximately 4 weeks after planting – mow to suppress competitive weed species (repeat as needed every 2 to 4 weeks)

False Seedbed Planting Method

• 6 to 12 months before planting – test soils and apply lime if required based on soil test results
• 8 weeks before planting – confirm sprig availability
• 4 weeks before planting – use a plow, disc, or harrow followed by a field conditioner to break up existing vegetation and smooth the field; incorporate P and K fertilizer and any additional lime if required based on soil test results
• Wait for undesirable weeds to germinate
• 1 week before planting – Lightly till the top 2” of soil and then firm the soil with a cultipacker roller to control emerged weeds
• After last risk of frost (April to May depending on location) – plant bermudagrass 
• 2 to 4 weeks after planting – apply low rate of N fertilizer
• Approximately 4 weeks after planting – mow to suppress competitive weed species (repeat as needed every 2 to 4 weeks)

Seeded Bermudagrass

The stale seedbed method is preferred for seeded bermudagrasses, but no-till plantings are possible. If there is risk of soil erosion, use the no-till planting method. 

Stale Seedbed Planting Method

• 6 to 12 months before planting – test soils and apply lime if required based on soil test results
• 8 weeks before planting – purchase bermudagrass seed
• 6 weeks before planting – terminate winter annual cover crop by grazing or mowing and spraying non-selective herbicide
• 4 weeks before planting – use a plow, disc, or harrow followed by a field conditioner to break up existing vegetation and smooth the field; incorporate P and K fertilizer and any additional lime if required based on soil test results
• 1 week before planting – spray a non-selective herbicide to control emerged weeds
• After last risk of frost (April to May depending on location) – plant bermudagrass
• 2 to 4 weeks after planting – apply low rate of N fertilizer
• Approximately 4 weeks after planting – mow to suppress competitive weed species (repeat as needed every 2 to 4 weeks)

No-till Seedbed Planting Method

• 6 to 12 months before planting – test soils and apply lime if required based on soil test results
• 8 weeks before planting – purchase bermudagrass seed
• 4 to 6 weeks before planting – terminate winter annual cover crop by grazing or mowing and spraying non-selective herbicide at the labelled rate
• 2 to 3 weeks before planting – apply an additional application of a non-selective herbicide (if required) at the labelled rate
• 1 week before planting – apply P and K fertilizer and any additional lime if required based on soil test results
• After last risk of frost (April to May depending on location) – plant bermudagrass
• 2 to 4 weeks after planting – apply low rate of N fertilizer
• Approximately 4 weeks after planting – mow to suppress competitive weed species (repeat as needed every 2 to 4 weeks)

Bahiagrass

The stale seedbed method is preferred for bahiagrasses, but no-till plantings are possible. If there is risk of soil erosion, use the no-till planting method. 

Stale Seedbed Planting Method

• 6 to 12 months before planting – test soils and apply lime if required based on soil test results
• 8 weeks before planting – purchase bahiagrass seed
• 6 weeks before planting – terminate winter annual cover crop by grazing or mowing and spraying non-selective herbicide
• 4 weeks before planting – use a plow, disc, or harrow followed by a field conditioner to break up existing vegetation and smooth the field; incorporate P and K fertilizer and any additional lime if required based on soil test results
• 1 week before planting – spray a non-selective herbicide to control emerged weeds
• After last risk of frost (April to May depending on location) – plant bahiagrass
• 2 to 4 weeks after planting – apply low rate of N fertilizer
• Approximately 4 weeks after planting – mow to suppress competitive weed species (repeat as needed every 2 to 4 weeks)

No-till Seedbed Planting Method

• 6 to 12 months before planting – test soils and apply lime if required based on soil test results
• 8 weeks before planting – purchase bermudagrass seed
• 4 to 6 weeks before planting – terminate winter annual cover crop by grazing or mowing and spraying non-selective herbicide at the labelled rate
• 2 to 3 weeks before planting – apply an additional application of a non-selective herbicide (if required) at the labelled rate
• 1 week before planting – apply P and K fertilizer and any additional lime if required based on soil test results
• After last risk of frost (April to May depending on location) – plant bahiagrass
• 2 to 4 weeks after planting – apply low rate of N fertilizer
• Approximately 4 weeks after planting – mow to suppress competitive weed species (repeat as needed every 2 to 4 weeks)

Tall Fescue

All tall fescue should be planted into a no-till seedbed. However, there are two different renovation process that you may use on your farm. The spray-smother-spray method is preferred if weather allows for a summer annual crop to be planted.

If previous stand tall fescue is not fully controlled, the chosen method will need to be repeated until the existing sod is fully controlled. This means additional smother crops should be planted or additional applications of non-selective herbicide should be applied if allowed under labelled instructions.

Spray-Smother-Spray Planting Method

• 6 to 12 months before planting – test soils and apply lime if required based on soil test results
• Spring before planting – mow or graze to prevent seedhead development
• April or May before planting – spray non-selective herbicide
• 1 to 3 weeks later – after herbicide has taken effect (based on label instructions), plant summer annual smother crop
• Summer before planting – graze or harvest summer annual as normal
• 1 to 3 weeks before planting (August/September) – spray non-selective herbicide
• 1 to 3 weeks later – after herbicide has taken effect (based on label instructions), plant tall fescue
• May through fall after planting – to avoid early stand loss, graze lightly with a small number of animals during short periods

Spray-Spray-Plant Planting Method

• 6 to 12 months before planting – test soils and apply lime if required based on soil test results
• Spring before planting – mow or graze to prevent seedhead development
• 8 to 10 weeks before planting – spray non-selective herbicide
• 2 to 8 weeks before planting – allow field to remain fallow for 4 to 6 weeks before next herbicide application
• 1 to 3 weeks before planting (August to September) – spray non-selective herbicide
• 1 to 3 weeks later – after herbicide has taken effect, plant tall fescue
• May through fall after planting –to avoid early stand loss, graze lightly with a small number of animals during short periods.

Annual Forages

The no-till planting method is used for overseeding cool season annuals into existing warm season perennial grass sods. This method is also used to suppress warm season annual forages as the smother crop in tall fescue renovation plans. If there is risk of soil erosion, use the no-till planting method. If there is minimal risk of soil erosion or no perennial sod in place, then a conventional seedbed may be used.

No-till Planting Method

• 8 weeks before planting – purchase seed
• 4 to 6 weeks before planting – control existing sod by grazing or mowing and spraying non-selective herbicide at labelled rate
• 2 to 3 weeks before planting – apply an additional application of a non-selective herbicide (if required) at labelled rate

Conventional Seedbed Planting Method

• 8 weeks before planting –purchase seed and control existing sod by grazing or mowing and spraying non-selective herbicide
• 5 weeks before planting – apply an additional application of a non-selective herbicide (if required)
• 2 weeks before planting – use a plow/disc/harrow followed by a field conditioner to break up existing vegetation and smooth the field; incorporate P and K fertilizer and any additional lime (if required based on soil test results)

Additional Resources

• Preparing and Calibrating a No-Till or Conventional Drill for Establishing Forage or Cover Crops
• Planting and Growing Annual Forages in Georgia​
• Calibrating a No-Till Drill (YouTube video)